High above sea level lies the world's highest administrative capital, La Paz, in Bolivia. This Andean capital strikes visitors with its unusual geographical setting, and rarely leaves anyone indifferent. I was utterly fascinated by this city. One thing I shall never forget is my visit to the eerie Witches' Market, tucked away on Calle Linares Jiminez, between Sagarnaga and Santa Cruz. It truly is one of the most unique markets I have ever visited. The name alone drew me in, but seeing it for myself was another matter entirely!
What is it?
The Witches' Market, or the Mercado de Hechiceria or Mercado de las Brujas in Spanish, lives entirely up to its name. It is a place where you can find all the lotions and potions that symbolise witchcraft and Aymara folklore (the indigenous ethnic group of the Andes). Here, many of the local people are deeply superstitious, and this is where those superstitions come to life!
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What will I find there?
You will find a myriad of ingredients such as herbs, spices and seeds, which are combined in elaborate Aymara rituals. If you have an infection, a worry or even a wish, you will find something here to heal, soothe or grant your request.
The market is gaining notoriety, probably thanks to the unusual sale of llama foetuses. Macabre to some but sacred to others, they correspond to a very specific Aymara ritual. Whenever a new house is built, or a person starts up a business, these llama foetuses are buried in the foundations of the new building, as an offering to Pachamama, Mother Earth, whose blessing is essential.
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Of course, that is not the only strange thing you will find. Many dried insects are used in these ceremonies, and I noticed a fair few dried frogs, tortoises and snakes. As I wandered through the stalls and alleyways, I was intrigued by the symbols on the little figurines, some made of wood, others of soapstone (a soft rock made of talc). Each one had its own meaning. It was a blend of traditions I could barely understand, but which carried me away…
I could not help laughing as I read the aphrodisiac formulas on display. It would seem that every country has a myth that holds the key to a happy love life.
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If you take a stroll through this market, all along your walk you will often hear "yatiri", meaning witch-healer, easily recognisable in the crowd thanks to their black hats. They advise you on which amulet to choose, and will even offer to read your future. I have never been much of a fan of having my life all mapped out, so I preferred to give it a miss!
I loved this market for its fame. Bolivia has so many other markets, such as those for food, clothing and decoration, and even a thriving black market, but the Witches' Market is a genuine cultural experience and an astonishing glimpse into the ancient rituals of this fascinating region.
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